The five pearl types we sell
All are genuine cultured pearls, grown inside a living mollusc. They differ in the water they grow in, their size, their colours and their price.
FreshwaterCultured in lakes and rivers. The widest range of shapes and natural colours (white, pink, lavender, peach) and the best value. Our everyday and gifting range.
AkoyaThe classic Japanese saltwater pearl: perfectly round, brilliant mirror lustre, 6 to 9 mm. The strand you picture when you think “pearls”.
South SeaThe largest and rarest, 9 to 16 mm, in white and natural gold. Thick nacre and a soft satin glow. Heirloom pieces.
TahitianNaturally dark pearls from French Polynesia: black, grey, peacock green, aubergine. Bold and modern.
KeshiSmall, all-nacre pearls with no bead nucleus and exceptional lustre. Free-form shapes, wonderful in layered strands.
How Mangatrai grades pearls
Six things decide a pearl’s quality and price. We check all six by hand, under daylight, before a strand is strung.
| Criterion | What we look for | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Lustre | How sharply the pearl reflects light. High-lustre pearls show a mirror-like reflection; softer lustre shows a diffused glow. | The single biggest driver of beauty and value. |
| Surface | Pits, spots and ridges. Clean, smooth surfaces grade higher; small natural marks add character without hurting durability. | Fewer blemishes, higher grade. |
| Nacre | The thickness of the pearly layer. Thicker nacre means deeper lustre and a pearl that lasts for generations. | Thin nacre wears through; thick nacre is an heirloom. |
| Shape | Round, near-round, oval, button, drop, baroque. | Round is rarest and priciest. Baroque is the most affordable and the most individual. |
| Size | Measured in millimetres across the pearl. | Each millimetre up is exponentially rarer and more valuable. |
| Colour & match | Body colour, overtone, and how evenly the pearls in a strand match each other. | A well-matched strand takes hundreds of pearls to assemble. |
The grade on your certificate
- Akoya: graded A to AAA. AAA is the highest, with mirror lustre and a near-flawless surface.
- Freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian: graded A to AAAA. AAAA is the best.
- Our everyday freshwater range is A quality: genuine, clean and lustrous at an honest price. Our sets and heirloom strands go up to AAA and AAAA.
How to tell real pearls from fake
- The tooth test. Rub a pearl gently against the edge of your front tooth. A real pearl feels slightly gritty; glass and plastic feel perfectly smooth.
- Temperature. Real pearls feel cool when you first pick them up and warm slowly against the skin. Plastic is room temperature immediately.
- Small imperfections. No two real pearls are identical. Perfectly uniform, flawless pearls at a low price are almost always imitation.
- Look at the drill hole. On a real pearl the edge is clean and you can often see the nacre layers. On imitations the coating chips around the hole.
- Weight. Real pearls are heavier than they look. Plastic beads feel light for their size.
Still unsure? Every Mangatrai order ships with a signed certificate, and if any laboratory ever finds our pearls are not genuine we refund in full, for life.
Pearl sizes and necklace lengths
| Pearl size | Look | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 3 – 5 mm | Delicate, seed-pearl fine | Daily studs, layering, young gifts |
| 6 – 7 mm | Classic | Office strands, first pearl necklace |
| 8 – 9 mm | Statement | Weddings, festive sets |
| 10 mm + | Heirloom | South Sea and Tahitian strands |
| Length | Name | Where it sits |
|---|---|---|
| 14" | Collar | Snug at the base of the neck |
| 16" | Choker | Just above the collarbone; most versatile with Indian necklines |
| 18" | Princess | At the collarbone; the classic single strand |
| 20 – 24" | Matinee | Below the collarbone; suits sarees and kurtas |
| 30" + | Opera / Rope | Wear long or doubled |
Caring for your pearls
- Last on, first off. Put pearls on after perfume, hairspray and make-up, and take them off before you undress.
- Wipe after wearing. A soft, dry cloth removes skin oils and keeps the lustre.
- Store separately. Pearls are softer than metal and gemstones. Keep them in the pouch we send, away from other jewellery.
- Never soak. No ultrasonic cleaners, no chemicals, no long baths. Water weakens the silk thread.
- Restring every one to two years if worn often. Restringing and polishing are free at any Mangatrai showroom, for life.
Ask a pearl expert